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It's a day of mixed emotions for Jil Sander fans, as the oddball German minimalist's final collaboration with Uniqlo just went on sale. As of 7:50 this morning, some 25 people were camped out inside the Soho store—not a bad turnout, considering the weather. And actually, based on what we saw at last night's press preview, the collection is highly weather appropriate. Filled with sharp jackets and quirky coats and rendered mostly in browns and greens, the last +J is a good reminder that fall is on the way.
Both genders can take their pick between lighter wool blazers and heavier down jackets. For women, the blazers are boxy and button surprisingly high, while the men's blazers have skinny lapels and a slim cut. The puffers range from fairly traditional to fashionably weird. One style, for women, has a tight waist and a bustle in back, like something Daphne Guinness would wear camping. Whatever you buy, be careful about sizing: The coats seem designed for people with narrow torsos, whether they're lean hipster boys or flat-chested model girls.
As always, women's non-outerwear options are conservative—not in terms of style, but in terms of being fully covered up. A long black wool dress with a gathered side was sexy in a Morticia Addams kind of way, while a shorter one had a bit of a Star Trek thing happening. Either way, this is not a collection for anyone who want to show some skin. The guy's stuff is a bit noisier, with sweaters in colors like hot pink and emerald green, but it's all still very work-appropriate.
Bottom line: If you like +J, stock up now, because you'll be wearing this stuff for a long time. On the other hand, don't beat yourself up if you missed today's rush. Both new Uniqlo stores (Fifth Avenue, opening October 14, and 34th Street, opening October 21) will carry full collections when they launch.
· There's a Line Inside Uniqlo For the Last +J Collection [Racked NY]
· Jil Sander and Uniqlo's +J Will Be No More [Racked NY]
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