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As our very daunting, very hectic Fashion Week starts to wind down, we thought we'd share with you some highlights from the many slightly less buzzed-about and/or under-the -radar menswear shows we had the pleasure of attending. Call it a trend report, if you want.
Americana is still absolutely everywhere, even in slightly distilled form. Buckler's usually very British and very rock 'n' roll sensibility was toned down and inspired by Jack Kerouac's On The Road, of all things. As such, Andrew Buckler presented khakis and plaid, slouchier denim, cozy knits, lots of layers, and a new suit collection that's edgy but still soft. Another Brit who is flirting with Americana is Simon Spurr. His exquisitely-tailored collection of slim denim, double-breasted everything, toggle coats, and leather totes was as much buttoned-up American as it was Saville Row.
Boots: they're everywhere, and the more Dr. Marten-like, the better. Tim Hamilton Redux—Tim Hamilton's diffusion collection of softer, simpler, and/or archive-inspired pieces—was all anchored by a series of Dr. Marten's, some covered in swaths of what looked like electrical tape. Despite the heavy footwear, the clothes were not intimidating: Lots of blue, lots of tan, some dropped crotches, some very buyable screened tees, and some clever geometric, maze-like prints.
PETROU/MAN also embraced those British shit-kickers. Nicolas Petrou's second menswear collection was the most avant garde of the bunch, but despite the safety pin-trimmed lapels, oddly embellished boots and crazy feather hats, there were a series of very wearable pieces. We loved a shawl-collared waistcoat in luxurious patterned wool, a slim black sweater with pin-dotted sleeves, a series of distressed dress shirts.
Patrik Ervell loves him some boots as well. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner up showed a military-inspired (dare we say Nazi-inspired?) collection of trim suiting in unusual colors—we loved the deep red, and the outerwear fashioned from sheer synthetics. Meanwhile, Timo Weiland showed a boot-anchored collection that was less military and more Victorian. Their pieces were lush (but unfussy) with textured knits, exaggerated checked collars, soft-edged skinny suiting, and long, chunky sweaters in slate grays and maroons. Note to both (and Hamilton): We'll pass on the meggings.
Peter Jensen, George McCracken, and Oumlil showed crisp, simple collections that make Timo Weiland's seem downright Baroque. Jensen, who specializes in cute-quirky prints and graphics, focused on belted outerwear and slim (rather than overly skinny) fits. Highlights included a cartoon rabbit knit, woolly tartan pants, shots of turquoise and a pretty amazing set of candy-striped oxford shoes. Also crisp, but a bit more grown up, McCracken's collection involved slim suit separates, boxy winter coats, perfect-for-now-fit slightly-slouchy skinny pants, and a unisex jumpsuit (another recurring trend we'll pass on). Similarly, Oumlil's line—dressier and leaning more towards evening—focused on beautifully fit and tailored suiting and tuxedos as well as some creatively-lapelled outerwear.
Finally, Perry Ellis showed a dark-hued, evening collection of randomly checked merino sweaters, trim pants with pocket flaps, color-blocked shirting, and a series of velvet and velvet-trimmed blazers. The highlights were definitely outerwear—cropped jackets and hunting coats with touches of leather and denim. We know the label isn't underground, but it's certainly under-buzzed, and it seems to be doing something right. This go 'round was its big return to the tents in a prime evening time slot.
· Fashion Week Fall 2010 All Coverage [Racked NY]