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Last night's fur-crazed Thakoon fall/winter 2010 show at the Eyebeam event space was a who's who of Vogue's masthead. Hamish Bowles and André Leon Talley said hellos on one end—a meeting of Editors-at-Large. Grace Coddington arrived on the late end after two other slim, curly-haired redheads of a certain age rolled in and totally confused us. We spotted her crouching in front of Anna Wintour for a quick chat before finally rushing to her seat as the show began.
Anne Slowey and Kate Lanphear represented Elle on one end of the Vogue squad while Mickey Boardman and Lynn Yaeger represented the New York crazies on the other. Naturally, Sartorialist Scott Schuman snapped photos of pretty people as Susie Bubble wandered about saying hellos and a whole slew of foreign buyers checked their watches and gabbed.
The show started slightly late but a very packed crowd, their semi-frantic Fashion Week energy, the heat of the space, and a soundtrack of a beating heart (or something similar) made the wait seem long and borderline frenetic.
A set of swooping curved partitions bathed in shifting white lights were erected for the show, and as models emerged we were greeted by a fur-heavy, ultra-luxurious collection of layered separates and dresses that started out on the somber end of gray and ended in a more joyous shot of yellow and printed pastel silk. Looks were piled on for warmth and depth—fur vests and fur-lined coats with hoods, pop-pom fringed woolen capes and hoodies, boxy jackets with pocket flaps so low along the waistband that we can't imagine there were actually any pockets at all. Pants had ribbed cuffs, jumpsuits looked more like union suits, and a heathery gray wool dominated. Snatches of leather—a blouse, almost comically over-sized knotted rope belts—accented a series of abstract animal prints. We loved a blown-out white tiger print on silk with highlights of electric coral, echoed in coral- and black-dyed flecks in a tiered, white fur skirt; and a flocked, velvet leopard in a sort of mocha.
The clothes were accented by a selection of heavy gray tights by Wolford and a series of sky-high wedges by Guiseppe Zanotti for Thakoon. Fly-away hair and dewy make-up was soft and subtle—completing a sort of ski bunny look and allowing the flouncy layering of luxury material do the talking. That said, a totally layer-less and totally shear yellow party dress with yellow rosette-trim did a fair amount of talking as well.
Oh hey, André!