Even if the Tommy Hilfiger show was the official final runway of Fashion Week, it ended with a bang for us yesterday evening when threeASFOUR presented their spring/summer 2010 collection at Milk Studios, in a performance rather than traditional catwalk.
Unlike the tents at Bryant Park, runway shows at Milk Studios are an exclusive affair, with smaller spaces and a guest list that doesn't include the personalities who are called to simply give character to the front row. Thus, the threeASFOUR front row was studded with top editors, buyers, and photographers. Somehow we were assigned a primo seat directly across from the guests of the evening, Yoko Ono and Sean Lennon, who brought his girlfriend. Yoko Ono had collaborated with the three designers of threeASFOUR, using her circle drawings as a pattern for the collection.
Overall, the show was one of the most beautiful, poetic displays of fashion on a runway that we've ever seen. It began as the models brought black stools out into the audience and joined the front row as watchers. Then, a single model wearing a white look, constructed of bits of fabric swirling around a white bodysuit, took center stage and stood with arms outstretched, offering up two pairs of scissors.
One-by-one, each of the seated models in the front row stood, took a slow walk and turn for the cameras, and then approached the first model to take a pair of scissors and snip off one of the pieces of the garment. It was quickly apparent that the inspiration was the circle, and all looks featured hardly any sharp angles in favor of curvilinear seams and details.
Bodysuits were cut with inspired mesh panels, sometimes leaving nothing to the imagination but still managing to get give your interest a jumpstart. And then Yoko's patterns came out, as flowy silk dresses and kimono-influenced shapes that began in cream and ended with a whisper of blue; this was the only color in the show aside from the Robin's egg-blue of the model's nails.
What can we say about the shoes? It's the clear stripper platform gone avant-garde really, with straps simply tied about the model ankles and obviously attempting to give the overall look levity. A few models were a bit shaky on their feet, but considering that the performance was choreographed, we have to hand it to them for keeping their cool.
Since each model walked, then snipped clothing from the first model, everyone in the audience had plenty of time to see and admire each garment. And they were stunning. We feel an urge to compare the creativity to Rodarte, but feel it exceeds that. Where Rodarte is cluttered, threeASFOUR is clean and crisp; and where Rodarte is heavily themed, threeASFOUR is timeless. They do have one major thing in common, however; both lines will only look great on the skinniest of people, preferably those with mosquito-bite boobs.
After a half standing ovation (meaning some still sat while others stood and applauded wildly), we left in a curious dreamlike state alongside Kate Lanphear and Hamish Bowles. It was the end of our biggest fashion week, fitfully concluded with the most elaborate of all shows.
· All Fashion Week Spring 2010 Stories [Racked]