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Hungover or not, the fashionistas lined up down 18th Street between Sixth and Seventh on Sunday for Toni Maticevski's spring/summer 2010 showing at noon. After grabbing a complimentary bottle of Fiji (and a couple of photo-ops), the audience took their seats for the show. One pair of shoes in particular had grabbed everyone's attention—black stilettos with a large brooch on the back. Rumor had it they were from the upcoming collection. When the first model walked out in a similar pair, the flashes immediately went off.
Neutrals continue to be prominent for the upcoming spring season, with Maticevski ditching the fabulous reds and pinks from his fall line. But more than ever, the beauty of the clothes really shone through, with stunning bejeweled accessories (the perfect complement to the beige, ivory, and black clothes) accenting everything from the hair to the shoes, the belts, and the necklaces. Portrait necklines were given an interesting asymmetrical twist, and layers upon layers of tulle, chiffon, and silk were expertly draped to emit a surreal, ghostly feeling. Still, the layers were contrasted nicely with structure; tube and pencil skirts were form-fitting, vests took on a new silhouette with a fuller bottom, and one jacket in particular had the 1980's shoulders we've all been trying to avoid. And the chiffon and tulle was always paired with a more technological fabric—like rayon and viscose—to keep it modern.
Art was definitely the word, and given Maticevski's fondness for fine craftsmanship and couture, he definitely hit the mark. Interesting paint-splat patterns, gorgeous metallic skirts and "hip bustiers" made the collection absolutely breathtaking. Perhaps the instant aesthetic appeal is what he was aiming for with this line, but he may have sacrificed the collection's individuality. The shoes were just like the ones Lanvin debuted—two seasons ago—and the apparel seemed to mirror Rodarte's clothes for Fall 2009. Have we seen it before? Yes. But rarely has it been done so well.—Phillip Picardi