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United Bamboo, the hip, New York-based label with Japanese and Vietnamese roots, showed a flouncy, feminine collection of garden party garb this morning at the Altman Building. Dresses were diaphanous and drapey but brought back down to earth with surprise origami fan, bow and rosette details at the bust, waist or shoulders. Skirt and blouse combos were cinched at the waist and created a retro '40s silhouette. Jacquard boleros and tailcoats were cropped, roomy and riddled with sailor collars and architectural pleats. Linens, silks and taffetas had shine and were rich with texture and crepe—a bit of a surprise for spring and summer, but luxurious and they added weight to the femininity of the pieces.
Prints were limited to shifts, blouses and tees of photo-printed silk featuring pixellated futuristic poppies and vaguely-Japanese looking illustrations of seemingly random birds, planets, faces and mystery shapes in soft reds, yellows, navy blues and neutrals. Basic tees and blouses in beige and white were elevated by a surprising amount of black, plus navy, the season's signature turquoise and gray. Most looks were belted; there was—of course—a jumpsuit; and some subtle sailor-styled detailing crashed the garden party with nautical collars, over-sized buttons and side closures on slim, cropped trousers and short, baggy shorts. Definitely a cohesive and very beautiful collection from the collective; and at least for this season a departure from some of the cuter and slightly streetwear-influenced items we had been accustomed to.
· All Fashion Week Spring 2010 Stories [Racked]