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When the design team at Hayden-Harnett sat down to plan for spring 2010, explained Ben, one of the masterminds behind the Brooklyn-based company, "almost everyone brought a picture of a desert. I think we turned to the desert because it reminds us of fortitude and strength, so the natural shapes and forms of the sand are really reflected in the line."
The result is a Native American–influenced collection in which predominantly neutral tones are livened with reds, purples, burnt orange, yellow, and even the occasional burst of green. Color was also shown in a surprising way in the line's new "kaleidoscope" print, which continues the mosaic trend seen on the fall runways. Dresses were the center of the collection, but came in a variety of silhouettes (none below the knee). Most of the pieces involved hardware in the form of zippers, tassels, or grommets, and heavy accessorizing on the wrists.
The real scene-stealer—aside from the Opera Company of Brooklyn, which performed during the presentation—was outerwear. Toni, one of the lead designers, pointed out that the label has "grown up a lot. It's not as basic, but it's still very versatile." The designer also expanded swimwear, which was hugely popular last season. And, of course, the accessories were classic Hayden-Harnett: Studs on the bracelets, beautiful silk scarves, and bags in a plethora of shapes and sizes.—Phillip Picardi