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Once you're past the super skinny women-in-black at the front door of the Simon Spurr presentation on 36th Street and Tenth Ave, you instantly feel the European vibe the designer's famous for. The look is incredibly minimalist—from the program, to the decor, to the collection itself. Clean lines and clean men—"a late 1960's man, very Helmut Newton, with a European sensibility" was the aim. Spurr, as usual, is right on the mark.
The men, all standing in a line, were arranged by color, starting out with the indigos of the collection, moving to a salmon, neutrals, yellows, and finally eveningwear. Spurr's models look incredibly sharp, but oddly laid-back in espadrilles and denim chosen by the designer to accent his staple pieces. While the quintessential Spurr was still visible in the clean button-down oxfords, the tailored straight-fit trousers, and the trenchcoats that only a gentleman should wear, he did step away from his comfort level this season.
"It's different this time around. Spurr is showing some skin, it's more racy. More daring. And very minimal," the designer told us. Racy, you say? Then what's with the big flowers on every model? He smiles. "True style is being in tune with your own character. Someone who understands themselves well can be masculine and wear a flower."—Phillip Licata