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Loden Dager—the hip New York menswear collective and early champion of the every guy in American Classics shtick—left us feeling a bit confused as we were leaving their Axelle Gallery runway show earlier on the far west side of Manhattan. Where were those perfectly tailored sportswear essentials they've become known for? True, what they were known for was kind of just doing J.Crew in sleeker cuts and luxury fabrics—but we love that! Anyway, the boys at Loden took some real risks this time around with varying results.
The slouchy five-pocket trouser jeans in faded khaki and conductor's striped denim were slightly cropped and perfect. The signature prints—especially a pixelated exploding Tetris geometric and sort of a stream-lined tribal dashiki—were fresh and charming and looked great on an assortment of slightly baggier and slightly shorter shorts than what were out for this past summer. That said, the three-button, double-vented cotton suit jackets didn't seem particularly flattering; and not a lot of guys—or skin tones—can get away with electric turquoise and washed-out orange peach; and the knits were all shear and fairly droopy looking. Suiting in jewel-toned thin-wale corduroy and the same stuff L.L.Bean rain slickers are cut from were borderline ridiculous and the whole color story seemed disjointed—from peach to black to teal to cherry red to khaki gray and back again. Overall, a bit of a surprise—a surprise that for some will mean a trip to J.Crew and a call to your tailor.
· All Fashion Week Spring 2010 Stories [Racked]