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Ratner's deli used to be up there with Katz's in the pantheon of Lower East Side delis. Now, it's a Sleepy's. How do you feel about that, Lost City? "I mean, the indignity. What was once arguably the Lower East Side's oldest and most famous kosher restaurant is now a mattress showroom, one link in a chain with a horribly garish red sign, an insipid mascot of a drowsy man in nightcap and nightgown, and the bizarre motto 'The Mattress Professionals.' (What does that mean exactly?)" Wait. That's a good point. Are there mattress amateurs? [Lost City]