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Here, Refinery29's first batch of Fashion Week show reviews. And now, what you need to know about yesterday's runways.
· Josh Goot
The future was once again perfect at Josh Goot’s spring/summer show. Tucked away in a gleaming white Chelsea gallery box, the austere, minimalist environment was a perfect space for Goot’s futuristic goddesses to glide about. With a nod to mod, his body-hugging silhouettes were brought to life with muted swipes of gold and silver, '60s’esque swirls of color, raw grafitti prints, and bold geometrics—think Judy Jetson with a feminine edge.
· Rachel Comey
It was academia-meets-downtown ingenue at Rachel Comey’s spring/summer show, which was staged in the gymnasium of a NoLIta Catholic youth center. Set to Santos & Johnny-style live music courtesy of the band Barbacoa, Comey’s bespectacled models cruised the gym floor wearing lots of cute tailored shorts, prim floral frocks, and skinny racerback knits, which gave the school-girlish collection a touch more sex appeal. The highlight: The shoes. Comey outdid herself this season with perfect-heeled brogues and clogs.
St. Mark's Church, just a few blocks up from where Whiskey-stained Bowery music scene once flourished was a fine setting for a collection that balanced formal ware with the rail-thin pants and silk shawls of ‘70s arena rock. Rethought seersucker suits and sharp wool waistcoats gave the line a bit of class while more rough-and-tumble pieces, like a denim vest with cow-hide patches and a black lamb-leather jacket, added grit. Guitarists take note—THE CAST's sleek gold-leather pants inspired more than a few catcalls.
An odd collision of favela life, Brazilian beach style, and breezy prep-school chic, Trovata's display was notable both for its gentle women's looks and its surprising presentation. Perry Farrell (dressed in a crisp blue Trovata vest with white jeans) and his Satellite Party supplied the music while a team of capoeira dancers demonstrated the durability of the line's loose sweaters and light trousers. Almost obscured by the spectacle was a fine collection of delicate white dresses—a fluted a-line was a true standout—with quietly impressive details best viewed in sunnier, quieter surroundings.
· Band of Outsiders
The Manhattan—the boat where Band of Outsiders held the presentation for their spring collection—whisked away partygoers and industry insiders from the warehouse-like behemoth of the Chelsea Pier to a yacht party in 1930s New England, where Salty Dogs reign supreme and Hemingway is the man of the hour. This marked not only designer Scott Sternberg debut of his newest men’s collection, which is under consideration for a CFDA Fashion Fund award, but also the debut of his women’s line, Boy, and his collection of “inside out” boat shoes for Sperry Top-Sider. As in his men’s collection, Sternberg kept to a muted palette of mostly black, navy, and beige (save for a pop of coral or canary yellow), and stuck with menswear staples for both sexes such as striped oxfords, cropped tuxedo jackets, and shrunken vests. The 16 dapper looks were paired with Prep School-mandated accessories like bowties and straw fedoras that gave the whole collection a collegiate air.
Designers Sarah Spratt and Christian Stroble turned up the volume on elegance with a short and sweet presentation that took a mixture of polished and punk to new levels. We loved the assortment of glazed linen pieces—in black, they resembled a highly wearable and fresh form of latex—and the sudden pop of red amid warm pinks and neutrals. Pleated skirts, gauzy cardis, and keyhole shift dresses filled out the collection and proved that short is still insanely sweet for spring/summer.
Photo from Josh Goot's collection via