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Refinery29 Dispatch: Saturday And Sunday's Shows

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Here, Refinery29 weighs in on the shows that took place this past weekend, the fourth and fifth magnificent days of Fashion Week. And now, what you need to know about Saturday and Sunday's runways.

Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki turned down the volume on United Bamboo...not that they were ever loud. It's their penchant for experimenting with forms that only rarely overtakes their grasp of taste, never over-eager showmanship. There's a solid internal logic to United Bamboo—most notably available this season in their ivory circle-patterned blouses and woven waist skirts with origami trim for women and quilted T-shirts and black seersucker pants for men. Their were some poor choices in motifs on good clothes and some questionable applications of great ideas elsewhere. But the quiet stuff won us over; a plaid men's jacket in refreshing colors and a slate cabled short-sleeve sweater for women were winners. With a limited but lovely range of tones, Aoki and Pham completely sold us on what we liked, and made us gloss over what we didn't.

It's practically heresy to say your tired of Peter, Bjorn & John's "Young Folks," but there you have it. DJ Spencer Product still made the right choice by spinning the tune in the tent beside the SoHo Grand for H. Fredriksson's Spring/Summer show. These cheerful lace-motif silk-crepe concoctions had the look and the bounce to appeal to youthful ladies. A taupe poof-sleeve dress was darling and a navy denim yoke dress with Swede Helena Fredriksson's trademark prints caught our eye. You probably already own two or three pieces that would fit in this charming line, but that's the idea. Of note, the ribbon-and-chain necklaces by Crumly are a must have.

With memories of his work for the now now-disbanded Cloak, we started Saturday with Robert Geller's intimate presentation of fine, crisp menswear suitable for skate punks (Keds were in use) and more mature males (who will opt for the contrast-collar blazer). Hip, yes—but Geller's balanced, sensitive approach steered the line far from hipster trash. A gray brushed "gros grain" blazer was mature and versatile and we can't really recall ever seeing pilled denim before, but we're eager to see it again. Skinny pants were balanced by wide-leg trousers and the general charcoal-and-ash palette was accented by that neon chartreuse. An eminently wearable mix of Cali and New York, this collection adds to Geller's growing reputation as a creator of thoughtful, thoroughly modern men's fashions.

For the second spring/summer in a row, American Tim Hamilton paired a blazing red with black—an unusual seasonal combo. Hamilton's collection was focused in message while diverse in form, and the seated showcase allowed him to play his speedy Londoner looks against touches of futurist prep. A shining silver metallic reversible trench seemed even more daring when contrasted with a complex, supple knit ivory coat. From the blue shiny anorak to a crinkled parchment-colored cardigan, Hamilton's laboratory experiments were predominantly successful. It wasn't all theory and oversized silk bow ties however (though there were oversized silk bow ties). Well-executed banded tanks, wide-waisted plaid shorts and a diagonal-striped button-up sweater were all pleasingly approachable.

Just to clarify: The basic, very current men's pieces by collective Loden Dager are tasteful in that hipster-gone-straight way. The live music of the guitar and Rhodes keyboard band Great Lakes is a good show. Even the affectionately ramshackle art space CUETO Project is a fun visit. Unfortunately, the combination of the three—which probably looked good on paper—didn't do the clothes justice. Unlike past Loden Dager showcases, the audience was not in the best venue to view the appealing gingham shirts, loosely woven jumpers, or pale linen shirts that had us wishing summer might last just a few weeks longer. We're keen to see the group come back next season with more energy and the straightforward presentation their laudably straightforward work deserves.

Well, at least Michael Stipe showed to lend support for Patrik Ervell's under-attended show at Pier59. In any case, the clothes were clearly well-tailored—ash-colored tweed trousers, lime and lavender jeans and creased navy pants were thin, but never tight. A tan-pleated tux shirt was attractive and the rounded-collar shirts matched with convex-shouldered jackets pleased. But other than a natty houndstooth suit, this collection seemed to pull all its punches.

—Refinery29 reporting by Gabriel Bell, Naomi Nevitt, and Natalia Rachlin; photo credit